goes. It s best to remember one thing if you plan a trip to one or all of these islands: It may just be a lifelong attachment. St. Croix The wide range of ecosystems on St. Croix make this isle a visual feast, from the arid desert dotted with cacti on the east side to the lush tropical rain forest and dramatic ocean cli s in the west to its two crayon-colored Danish colonial towns of Christiansted and Frederiksted. Outdoor sports enthusiasts have embraced the hilly topography of St. Croix, which now hosts several triathlons and marathons in addition to biking events most weekends. On January 24, the St. Croix Scenic 50 ultramarathon will be held for the rst time: a 50-mile endurance run from Fort Christiansvaern to Fort Frederik and back, ending at The Buccaneer hotel s Mermaid Beach. This grand dame is the oldest continually operating, familyowned hotel in the Caribbean. Once a sugar estate where Alexander Hamilton lived as a child, the land was purchased by the current owner s grandfather to use as a cattle farm. Owner Elizabeth Armstrong, an avid triathlete and ninth-generation Cruzan, conducts weekly nature walks. History and nature bu s are drawn to Virgin Kayak s tour of Salt River Bay National Historical Park, where Columbus landed on one of his rst trips to the Caribbean more than 500 years ago. Owner Bryan Updyke, a knowledgeable environmentalist who is leading the e ort to reestablish the mangroves destroyed by Hurricane Hugo, leads kayakers through the estuaries while regaling with tales of the Ta no and Carib Indians, African slaves and Dutch settlers. Dine casually al fresco on the expansive terrace at Eat on Cane Bay, positioned with a view of one of the island s most popular beaches (and a terri c spot for snorkeling and diving just out from the shore). Owner Katherine Pugliese cofounded Taste of St. Croix. (the highlight Try your luck at crab racing in Christiansted on St. Croix (below, left). Head to St. John to stay in a unique tent cottage at Maho Bay Camps (center) or check out W healan Massciot s j-hook bracelets, a fave of Kenny Chesney. St. John s Trunk Bay (opposite) is famous for its coral reefs. event of the St. Croix Food & Wine Experience). The menu features local sh and beef (St. Croix is known for Senepol cattle), organically grown local vegetables and fruit, along with a few unexpected ingredients to give it a gourmet edge. Toppings for your Senepol burgers include seared foie gras, duck chile, chorizo or locally caught Caribbean lobster. Another don t miss: mussels paired with Belgian fries. Many restaurants on the island have adopted the slow-food organic movement, and a leader on the island is Ben Jones, founder of the Virgin Islands Sustainable Farm Institute, just named by National Geographic as a Top 10 Innovative Geotourism Project in the world and as #1 in the Caribbean. Once or twice a month, he hosts a dinner for 30 to 50 guests on the veranda of his farmhouse in a tropical forest. Insiders clamor for a spot at the long tables. (To get an evite, email slowfoods@vis .org.) Because St. Croix, dotted with centuriesold sugar mills, remains rural and close to its agricultural roots, it is one of the best Caribbean islands for catching a glimpse of the past. At Whim Great House (wonderfully decorated during the holiday season), a docent in traditional dress describes plantation life and visitors can see examples of many of the crops and owers grown at St. George Village Botanical Garden, set on an old sugar plantation. On Sunday afternoons, the place to be is Buck Island, where local families and tourists ock for picnics. Right o the island is the nation s rst preserved marine park with a marked snorkel trail (per John F. Kennedy s designation after he vacationed here). In January, former President Jimmy Carter and his wife will stay at the newly renovated Club Comanche, in 74 November 2009 deltaskymag.com pg 72-77x104.indd 4 10/9/09 1:01:59 PM