GET A HEAPING PLATE OF DIVERSE FARE.
By Photographs by
Clockwise from top left: The head waiter at The Troyeville Hotel; Prawns and chips at The Troyeville; The owner of The Plate, with his wife; Sticky ribs at Plate; The Troyeville; Ethiopian fare at Street food in New Chinatown; Masala dhosa at Shayona.
know that the best way to learn about a city is through its food, and Johannesburg, with its rich mining-town heritage, is no exception. not talking dining here (although there is plenty in Johannesburg for the gourmet), rather those places where locals knowing that appearances can be food ofen emerges fom the tiniest of kitchens. The culinary map of Johannesburg is as varied as the spices in the food. The east side of the city (comprising the suburbs of Kensington, Observatory and Troyeville) is well known for Portuguese food, brought to the city by who moved here to escape the civil war in Mozambique in the late 1980s. A longtime hangout for journalists, artists, immigrants, intellectuals and sports fans, The Troyeville Hotel is an undisputed favorite. Here, fesh Mozambican seafood gets the Portuguese treatment sardines and prawns, huge espetadas and beef trinchado. Swing by on a weekend and join the outdoor barbeque, where eat peri-peri chicken, steak and while enjoying a view over the city skyline. In the heart of Joburg is Fordsburg, an area where South Aficans of Indian and Pakistani heritage were forced to live in the bad old days. Many families stayed on, and now modern mosques sit higgledy-piggledy next to old-time shops selling everything fom spices to fabrics. While there is a multitude of curry houses to choose fom, Shayona is a landmark in this neighborhood, selling purely vegetarian fare: samosas, chili bites and traditional sweets soaked in cardamom-infused syrup and decorated with gold and silver leaf. Try the masala dhosa, a giant, crispy pancake wrapped around spiced potatoes with a range of sambals (chutneys) and dips. Fordsburg is also home to many immigrants fom the Horn of Afica, and Ethiopian, Sudanese and Eritrean food is beginning to make a mark on the culinary landscape. Take a
June 2010 deltaskymag.com