left: Sohail Zandi prepares to roast pineapples over an
open re on cleared land at Brushland Eating House. right:
The olive oil cake with fresh blackberries, a
slightly savory ode to the classic Italian dessert.
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on the ground floor; two furnished
apartments upstairs are rented out
via Airbnb. The restaurant space is
minimalist but has tons of character:
picture windows, weathered hardwood floors, black built-ins against
stark white walls, a wood banquette
running the length of the space with
a backdrop of a small, open kitchen.
It so much the building,
however, that drew Zandi and Elbert
to Bovina. town has been the
most attractive he says.
who live here have a lot of town pride.
[When we moved here,] not sure
we knew it was such a special place.
Three towns over and it would have
been a completely different
Community plays a big role in
success. With so many
farms a short distance from the restaurant, finding quality ingredients
an issue. meat comes from
a farm right down the says
Zandi. not from Bovina,
from the next couple of towns over.
The problem for us is how to keep everyone happy. We have to pick and
choose where we get our stuff.
As for the food, Zandi keeps it
short, sweet and flexible.
menu is made up of just a handful of
appetizers and a manageable amount for the three-person
kitchen crew. Zandi notes that one
of the most beloved dishes is incredibly basic. just roasted carrots in
honey in a honey-almond
he says. literally the simplest
dish, but the one that people
gravitate toward Other menu
favorites include a hand-rolled pasta
with tomato sauce, basil, bacon and
pecorino cheese, a pork schnitzel
and the one-fl ip burger topped with
American cheese, lettuce, tomato
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WE LIKE TO DO A
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EVERYBODY, IF NOT
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